Wednesday, June 19, 2019

Wimple Wednesday: 16th Century Flemish Coif

The original has c.1590s Italian lace, but is described by the VAM as a Flemish style c.1550-1600. Interestingly, the portrait mentioned in the MET's description of this coif is dated c.1530--as are several other portraits by the same artist showing this style of coif. So, we're looking at a style that was apparently in use at least from 1530-1600.

Portrait of Anna Codde (1529) by Maerten van Heemskerk

Portrait of Emmetje Teunisdr. van Souburgh
(1540-1545) by Maerten van Heemskerck

From the item description, the coif is 39.5" long from crown to lappet and 9" wide at maximum (which I believe to be the front-to-back measure). There appears to be a seam along the top, which is gathered into the 'rondel' at the back. This is very like the construction of last week's coif, only with lappets and no back gathering.

When worn, the lappets appear to be crossed or pinned up at the back, making folds and a separation between the hanging lappet and the coif where it sits over the head. Crossing and knotting the lappets behind caued the coif to pull away from the head. I am still experimenting, but tentatively favor crossing the lappets high behind the head, and pinning each one.

Still working out the fold lines,
but I think this is on the right track.


Of course, it is very easy to tie the lappets over the head, like the 15th century long-tailed cap, and I rather like it. Pity the portraiture disagrees.

Comfortable, practical,
and not supported by my current evidence


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