Late 18th Century Shifts

Shift/chemise, last quarter 18th century.
Shown with stays and panniers LACMA

Some notes I put together in preparation for actually making 18th century costume.  One must, of course, start from the innermost layers, which usually translates into shifts and stays.

Shift, French, 3rd quarter 18th century. The Met.

Shift, American, c.1780. The Met

Shift, American, 1780-1810. The Met.

The construction is easier to see flat, as in this example from Williamsburg:

Shift c.1780-1810. Colonial Williamsburg

 There are more examples in the Williamsburg collection (the site doesn't direct link, but a search for "shift" turns up two more late 18th century, as well as some early 19th). The shifts all cut square, and flare towards the hem (sometimes achieved with gores); the necklines are rounded, and some are controlled with drawstrings; the sleeves vary between mid-bicep to upper elbow length, and have a square gore under the arm to allow movement. Some of the more sheer fabrics reveal a facing at the point where the sleeve is joined to the body.

Additional sources:
There is good research by Larsdatter. Kendra of Demode has a short timeline of original chemises.  And here is nother example by Mara Riley (I love it when measurements of the original item is included!). Marquise.de has some cutting diagrams adapted from French and German sources.