Winter Mantle, 1857

Just in time for winter events, I finished my new 1850s mantle, based on a pattern from the December 1857 issue of The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine.

Winter Mantle. Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, December 1857.

Per the description, the mantle is made of wool broadcloth, trimmed with velvet ribbon and fringe. Black or brown with matching trim is the preference, though the description also suggests using black trims "with any dark cloth."

I selected a grey broadcloth, which ended up being a few shades lighter than intended. That being said, I think the lighter color is more cheerful than a solid black would have been, and I like how it looks with my mauve hood and knitted comforter.

The buttons and cord fastener don't photograph well against the velvet.

Materials: 

Scant 3 yards grey broadcloth

6 yards of  2" black (cotton) fringe

12 yards 3/8" wide black velvet ribbon

5 yards 1.5" wide black velvet ribbon

8 wood button molds

~6 yards of black beading silk to make the cord fasteners.

Scraps of black silk taffeta and white linen for covering buttons

Scraps of fringe for the 2 tassels

I sketched the 3 pattern pieces--front, back, sleeve--to scale, then made a muslin to test the shoulder and neck fit. The sleeves were delightfully easy, in that there's no underarm seam: just a generous side opening that will easily fit large 1850s pagoda sleeves, and a cape to cover. I sewed the construction seams using a double row of running stitches in grey silk thread, based on the construction notes from an 1780s broadcloth cape in Costume Close Up (which also proved successful on my 16th-17th century cloak). The ribbon and fringe are both attached by small uneven running stitches.

I attempted to make silk tassels out of size FF beading silk, but didn't like how the material behaved; instead, I used the off-cuts of the fringe, sewn tight around the head, to form the two tassels. The finished mantle shows a double line of buttons with cord, which is how I interpreted the fasteners (based on examples like this mantle which uses more elaborate frogging). I considered applying the buttons as a decoration only, and using concealed hooks-and-eyes, but decided to try the buttons and cord loops first. I couldn't find any black cord that I liked, so I used my straw-spinner to twist an 8-strand cord (first twisting two sets of 4-strands, then plying them together). 

Plying cordage.

Compared to the original image, I could have used a darker broadcloth, and I think the proportions would stand for wider trims. I went with these ones because I couldn't find any fringe longer than 2" or velvet ribbon wider than 1.5", and I wanted to maintain the proportions of the narrow and wide ribbons. That being said, I rather like how it turned out, except that the 3/8" ribbon was difficult to manipulate over the fringe header. Practically, I find the current fringe length very practical to wear