Linen Sleeve Protectors

Finished my 2025 Christmas presents for real, this time, back in February (though apparently I never actually published this post), with a pair of linen sleeve protectors. While the documentation I gathered back in the day suggested that such sleeves were primarily used by clerks and other people engaged in large amounts of writing, there was also scattered references to grocers' assistants, artists, and other occupations where one's forearms are at risk of soiling, but where rolling up the sleeves would be inappropriate.*

This pair is intended for one my favorite tin-smiths, who has been looking for a way to protect her dress sleeves from snags and abrasion while cutting tin. The mid-weight linen I used is fairly stout and close-woven, without being coarse, and I hope that it will do the job.

*Of course, when I repeated the search in 2026, Google Books had exactly 3 results for this kind of oversleeve in the period 1840-1865: a clerk, an artist, and a doctor performing 'chemical experiments.' 

Original: Brocade Gown, c.1775

 Something that's aged well over 250 years:

French brocade gown, c.1775, in the MET.

The bright fabric initially made this gown catch my eye. According to the Met's write-up, the attached bodice front with button closure (rather than a separate stomacher piece pinned to the overgown) is what makes this garment unique. While I still find panniers a bit ridiculous, they do show off the material very well, especially designs with large motifs. Do follow the link for additional angles: this gown also has a lovely sacque back, and there's also a nice side view which shows the gown's surprisingly narrow profile (compared to its width).

HMP-150 Infant Dresses

 Managed to finish one project in April/May: a set of infant dresses for the newest Fort volunteers. As usual, I used Liz Clark's pattern.

Size 2 dress with high neckline, smooth fit bodice and slim short sleeves.

One of my favorite parts of this pattern is the ease of customization. I made 2 complete dresses, with a second (one size larger) bodice for each, and was able to use different style elements every time.

A

The other size 2 dress, with a yoked bodice and long straight  sleeves.

This was also the first time I made resize-able dresses. The skirt was made to the largest size, and hemmed long to cover a pre-crawling baby's feet. Sewn to the size 2 bodice, it has a generous overlap at the waistband; when it's too small, the bodice can easily be removed and switched to the next larger size (though the hook and eye on the waistband will need to be moved, and tucks taken in the skirt once baby starts crawling.)
 

Size 3 bodices: both with boat necklines, the blue is yoked and has short loose sleeves, the orange plain with puffed sleeves.

Purple Silk Cross-over Bodice, c. 1840

 

Purple silk dress, c.1840, from The Met.

 

Looking for 1850s dress inspiration, I stumbled upon this fun c.1840 silk dress with a surplice/cross-over style bodice. At first glance I took it for an early 1860s dress with relatively large coat sleeves, but from the side view, it's more clearly one of those fun shapes that appears post-1836-sleeve-collapse where the sleeve is gathered/shirred down close around the upper arm (and visually smoothed out here with a jockey) then balloons out again a little above the elbow, only to get tight again around the forearm.

In the close-up views, the fabric appears to be a satin; and I'm very intrigued by the small edging detail on the sleeve jockey: overlapping loops of perfectly color-matched satin-covered cording. I'm very curious about whether that was a manufactured-to-match trim, or actually pieced from the same fabric as the dress.

Wool "Corset Bodice", First Quarter of the 19th Century

Corset Bodice, c.1800-1825, Snowshill Collection 

accessed through UK National Trust.

I have So Many Questions about this garment. It came up while I was looking for inspiration images for some early 19th century short stays, but thus far it's eluding classification.

At first glance, I took this for a set of short stays with unusually long tabs. On further reflection, I started wondering if it was in fact long stays that had (possibly through later alteration) voids instead of hip gores.  The double bust gores are a very common way of shaping long stays in the 1820s and 1830s, though I haven't seen them in the few short sets I've found. The front laces are also nigh-ubiquitous for those elusive early 19th century short stays; at the same time, I can't recall seeing a single set of longer stays from that period with front laces instead of a front busk. And then there's the fact that there are only 6 eyelets per side, allowing the garment to lace mere inches past the bust itself.

 On the whole I'm leaning towards considering this to be a set of short stays with very weird tabs and a bust treatment more typical of long stays. I'm not wholly convinced they weren't meant to be long stays which was never completed or was turned into short stays halfway through (the lack of additional eyelets is what's keeping me from speculating that they were long stays with later alterations). Or possibly this is something else entirely: an unusual, or perhaps a costume piece meant to evoke 18th century pastoralism with a fashionably raised early 19th century waistline.

I do like the contrasting color along the upper binding at the underarm: though not specified in the description, this would match the places where chamois leather is used on some 18th century stays to deal with a high-wear area. 

Originals: Bright Embroidered Slippers, 1855-65

 I love these:

Embroidered Wool Slippers, c.1855-1865, from Historic New England.

The description says that these are wool with embroidery and silk lining. I really love the contrast between the white ground exterior and the bright scarlet trim/bow/lining.

Zooming in close (thank you for the high resolution photos!), the embroidery appears to mostly be in chain-stitch, with applique (the red shapes and green and blue rosettes) and gold couched threads. At least two of those chain-stitch lines are done in alternating colors.

Fabric Lengths for Historic Sewing Projects

With the caveat that lots of projects can require more or less fabric, here's the "rule of thumb" measures that I use when I find an interesting fabric for future use. Obviously, if you are looking for fabric for a specific project, the yardage can be more precisely calculated by laying out the pattern pieces.

Given my eras of interest, these measures are mostly based around the middle of the 19th century (1850s into early 1860s); when an era is not specified, it generally means this time period. Most of the values given are minimums that I would need to comfortably make item, with only a little piecing for elements like piping; it may be possible to squeak through with less fabric, but additional yardage will be needed for matching patterns, adding self-trim, or for particularly capacious cuts like trains, flounced or swagged skirt layers and hanging sleeves.

Skirts and petticoats (1850s-1860s) are calculated assuming 3 panels cut 45" long and faced with a different fabric (for 54"-60" wide fabric), or 3.5-4 panels of the same length (if 44" fabric). Linings are not included in the base fabric measures.

Cotton Calico (assumed to be ~44" width)

1/2 yard, fat quarters, or small remnants work well for doll clothes and small crafts

~1.5 yards for a sunbonnet

1-2 yards for an apron 

3-4 yards for an 18^th century petticoat (skirt)

5  yards for a Regency/Empire dress

6-8 yards for an 18^th century gown (can vary greatly based on style)

7-8 yards for an 1850/1860s dress

Light-weight cottons (such as lawn, organdy, and batiste) 

1/2 yard: collars and cuffs; under-sleeves; or an 1850s cap

1 yard for a basic chemisette

2-3 yards for a fancy apron

2.5-3 yard pieces for blouses (white waists)

3 yards for an 1850s basque bodice or mantle

3.75/5 yards for an 1850s skirt without a bodice (54"-60" wide/ 44”)

4-5+ yards for an Empire-style dress (4 yards min for 60" wide fabric, 5 yards  min 44" wide) 

7-8 yard for a sheer 1850s dress (for a 60" wide fabric, I can get this down to 6 yards)

Cotton broadcloth (44" wide) 

Can be used for collars, cuffs, undersleeves, and aprons, same yardage as “light cottons”

2 yards for Victorian drawers

3 yards for chemises or a corded petticoat (including tucks or a facing for the cording)

4.5-5 yards for a basic 1850s petticoat (increase yardage for decorative tucks, etc.)  

Cotton Coutil/Twill (54”-60” wide)

1-2 yard for a corset depending on size and style

Linen (weights vary by project type, 54"-60")

½ yard – 1 yard pieces of fine linen for caps, coifs, kerchiefs, or ruffles

¼ yd -1 3/8 yd for early modern ruffs

1 yard for a medieval through 18^th century apron (1/2 yard if pieced)

2 yards for a Regency chemise; or a large medieval veil or fancy 18^th century cap

2-3 yards for a basic 18^th century petticoat (3 for an over petticoat)

3 yards for a medieval or Early Modern smock, or a Tudor sleeveless kirtle

Wool (tropical weight suiting 54"-60" wide unless noted otherwise)

As little as 1/4 yard of wool lasting can make the uppers for a few pair of gaiters. 

 ½ yard for a Tudor partlet

1-1.5 yard for an Empire-style spencer

1.5 yards sheer wool for a capeline bonnet (generally green or black)

2 yards will make a square shawl (1.5 yards of 54") 

3 yards of wool flannel will make a flannel petticoat or a man's overshirt 

3 yards will make an 1850s basque bodice or jacket; or a Tudor kirtle or a medieval surcote (no sleeves)

3 yards of heavier coating wool will make a moderate-length mantle, cloak, or coat 

3.75 yards will make an 1850s skirt 

4 yards for medieval cotes and similar garments, Tudor gowns (4.5-5 for a safer margin sleeves), and Regency redingotes or pelisses.

6+ yards will make an 1850s dress (or, if wool flannel, a bathing costume)

Silk (taffetas unless otherwise noted, assume 54”-60” width)

1/4 yard for dancing slippers (often satin) or silk gaiters, small crafts and trimming projects

1/2 yard pieces can be useful for trimming bonnets, most reticules, or making small crafts

1/2 yard organza for a fancy 18^th century apron, ½-1 yard for a cap, 2 yards for sleeve ruffles  

1/2-1 yard for covering a Victorian parasol frame.  

1yd makes a bonnet, shaped belt, or trim for a dress 

1.5 yards should be enough for a Tudor front-piece (check finished length of skirt)

3 yards for a 1850s basque bodice, mantle or jacket; or for lining a short cloak or paletote

3.75 yards will make an 1850s skirt 

4 yards for a Regency day dress (may be able to squeak a ball gown with short sleeves out of 3 yards)

4-5 yards for a Tudor gown (4.5-5 for a safer margin sleeves)

6+ yards will make an 1850s dress or basic 18th century gown (more needed for layered effects like polonaises)