Original: 1840s Adjustable Wrapper

 

Cotton Wrapper, c.1840s, Kent State University Museum.

Since a direct link doesn't work, a search for item "1984.002.0045 ab" in the Kent State University Museum's online collection is the best way to see the alternative views of this lovely cotton print (especially the final detail view of the printed fabric up close, and the front-on view which shows the diagonal grid of the pelerine front to perfection).

The vivid colorway of the printed cotton fabric is what initially caught my eye about this wrapper: there's two different wavy floral lines, one running horizontally and one vertically, with the resulting squares not only alternating between green and yellow/beige in each horizontal row, but those boxes are dyed in a graduated ombre (darker towards the bottom, lighter towards the top) with a subtle tone-on-tone coral motif in each (possibly a resist-dye effect). The size of the motifs and color differences (high contrast in some places, tone-on-tone in others) make it look striking from a distance but somehow less "busy" than I would have expected.

The second thing that caught my eye was the way the side seam in the skirt is a good half-motif off of alignment, which in such a large print really shows. I liked this because while it's strikingly obvious, the mis-matched print doesn't actually detract from my enjoyment of the dress as a visual object. In a way, it draws more attention to the detailed, bright printed design.

The diagonal grid formed by cutting the pelerine front on the bias also really stands out on this example (seriously, go check out the first image with the front view). Again, the fabric itself has so much going on, that simply rotating the motif 90 degrees in one area but not another makes a dramatic effect.

I do wish there was an interior construction photograph of this dress: the description mentions drawstrings in "both bodice and skirt", leading to the conclusion that this was a maternity dress. Strategic drawstrings are certainly a technique which can help fit an 1840s/50s/60s dress to such a changing figure, though I can't say that they are exclusive to maternity dresses versus wrappers worn at other times. Even more convincing to me, is that looking closely at the side-view waistline, it is appears that the mannequin has been padded out in the lower abdomen (mimicking a baby bump), but between the print and the wrapper's soft shape, it's hard to tell for sure. Which, from what I've read about Victorians, would make it an excellent maternity dress.