Thursday, September 27, 2018

Original Barred Sheer Dress

This is the only antique dress in my collection. It's entirely hand-sewn, and I am currently dating it to the late 1850s.


EK original 1850s dress, bodice front view.
The bodice, and it's enormous sleeves. By the old stitching lines,
the bodice originally had a 22" waist and 34" bust. The waist is currently 25".

EK original 1850s dress, back sleeve detail.
That fabulously full pagoda sleeve with pointed jockey.
The bodice has an open neckline, center-front closure, and long, open sleeves.  The sleeves are lined in net, the rest of bodice in white polished cotton. The bodice closes with hooks and eyes on the lining layer, only. The neckline, sleeves, and jockeys are trimmed with puffs of self-fabric. That is, the trim is a single layer of the fabric, cut on grain, which has been lightly gathered top and bottom, and stitched down.

The lining fabric is shaped with two darts on each side front (boned), while the sheer fabric is lightly shirred at the front and back. The waistband edge was originally piped, but a self-fabric waistband was later added below this, probably at the same time that the seam side seams were let out to increase the waist measure by 3": these are the only alterations made the dress, and are a much later date based on the extra lining material (apparently a synthetic), and the quality of the stitching (very bad).  The original stitching is tiny and even, with running stitches joining most seams and securing the trim, back-stitches at stress points (shoulders, darts), and whip stitches finishing the shoulder seam allowances.


EK original 1850s dress skirt.
Skirt.
Fortunately, I have a decent amount of experience
wrangling mid-19th century dresses into archival boxes.
The skirt has a detached lining of white polished cotton; the fashion-fabric skirt has a sheer hem facing, and hem tape. The two skirt layers are knife-pleated together, and are whip-stitched to the waistband at 16 stitches/inch. The skirt is ~41" long ( I have not checked multiple points, yet, for insight into the balancing).

EK original 1850s dress skirt pleat detail.
I love the tiny, regular stitches,
even though my wrist just cramped up looking at them.

EK original 1850s dress skirt hem detail.
Hem tape on a sheer! And a sheer facing, which I did not expect.

EK original 1850s dress skirt lining detail.
The polished cotton skirt lining is only joined to the skirt at the waist.
It has a deep self-hem, with more exquisite running stitches.
These are my (awful) pictures, and my garment, so don't use them for commercial purposes. Educational and personal use? Please cite, link, and enjoy.

Monday, September 24, 2018

Starting Conversations

I've been musing a bit this summer about how to start conversations with visitors. I find it easy, now, to answer their questions, but when the visitor doesn't make that first overture, it's up to us interpreters to get things rolling. [If the questions you are getting seem less-than-helpful, check out Liz's post.] Although I'm arguably a professional, what follows are my own thoughts and reflections, rather than a guaranteed method of successfully initiating meaningful conversations. For fair warning, this post has also gotten ridiculously long over the two months I've been re-writing it.

General List of Things That Work

  • Greeting the visitor
  • Offering an explanation of the activity I'm undertaking
  • Asking about the visitor's experiences at the site or event
  • Calling artifacts/props to the visitor's attention (in character or in modern voice)

General List of Things That Do Not Work So Well

  • Acting scandalized by the visitors' clothing or deportment
  • Anything prefaced by "Did you know--"?
  • Pretending to be confused by cell phones and similar technology 
  • Melodrama
  • "Do you have any questions?"

Why I Think So

Greeting the visitors is an easy first step. I find a simple "Welcome", or "Good Morning/Afternoon/Day" to be very flexible--"Hi" and "Hello" also work, but for reasons of verisimilitude, I prefer not to use them in my current settings. Sometimes, that's all I need to do--the visitor will offer up a question or observation in response, and we've already begun a conversation.  More often, the greeting needs to be followed by one of my other techniques.  But, if nothing else, the greeting establishes that I am present, that I am not a mannequin (which has come up surprisingly often this summer), and that I'm available to talk. Singing to myself between groups can sometimes accomplish the first two (and amuse me while I wait for visitors), but I need to stop so that a conversation can start.

I'll often combine the greeting with another technique, to give the visitor more bearings about their situation, and provide context to prompt their questions. So, if they've walked in on me doing some work, I'll name the task, and either begin an explanation of it, or beg a moment's indulgence while I set it down.  I like to keep these short, and offer succinct facts that help the visitor contextualize what I'm doing, and what additional information they might want. Knitting socks, for instance, might lead into discussion of the people who would be wearing them, the materials they are made from, how I learned to knit, how people made or acquired clothing in the 1850s, how people kept warm in the 1850s.  Sometimes, the visitor will offer a statement in return ("My mom used to knit"), as they start to relate your historical pretension to their own lived experience--which is pretty cool and totally what we're about.

Similarly, I can point out an object that may be of interest to the audience, even if I'm not using it.  The curtains in the Tolmie house (Damask ordered from England, at a cost of over 5 pounds for 60 yards), is a favorite: it tends to start conversations about trade routes and the availability of goods, but also prompts conversations about social status, wealth, and currency.  In the store, I often overhear visitors reading the explanatory plaque aloud before entering the building; when this includes confusion about an item, I'll prepare to point out the lusterware dishes, Jew's harp (or jaw harp, a small musical instrument), or other object of interest. A favorite variant of mine is to greet the visitor, and suggest all of the things they may be interested in purchasing, as a softened version of an eager salesclerk (most of us react poorly to pushy sales pitches, so keep it light).
After the activity or object gambit (or instead), I'll try to ask the visitor a question; after all, this is a conversation, not a lecture. The idea with asking questions is to get the visitor comfortable talking to you, and to suss out what they want to hear more about--this isn't the place to pop quizzes (more on that later). Likewise, rhetorical questions aren't my favorites, because they don't tend to further the conversation. Answers do.

If I'm early on the itinerary (or just saw the group come in and turn towards my usually-later-in-the-experience station), I might try "Is this your first visit to [site]?" This gives me a chance to drop some necessary background information to first time visitors (such as that we're an HBC trading post, not a military fortress), which will reduce confusion during the rest of the visit. Returning visitors will often venture a remark on how often they've attend/when they were last here (a school field trip 30 years ago, the last living history event, the fundraiser concert a few years back), which gives me an opportunity to thank them, and to single out some attractions that may be new since their last visit, or special activities that are happening today, such as:
  • The current temporary exhibit
  • The renovation of a [now centerpiece] historic building, which occurred 15 yards ago (we do get visitors in who remember touring with a school group 20 or 30 years before)
  • Daily programming, like a visiting artisan's demonstration
  • The spaces currently being interpreted (blacksmith shop, kitchen, orchard, woodworking area, etc.), and that these are good places to ask any questions they think of while visiting
  • Where the restrooms are (it's a new-ish building)
  • Attractions and amenities suitable to the group's interests: a group with young children might be especially interested in the game area; making sure groups with strollers/wheels are finding the ramps, etc.
With children, I might try "Are you having fun?", and when they answer "yes", follow up with "what was your favorite thing you've seen so far?"  When they inevitably answer the chickens, or the bastion, or the games, I can validate the response and offer an interesting fact or two. ["Yes, there was one chicken taller than the others. His name is Buster, and he's the rooster.", "This house is also my favorite building.  When the Tolmies lived here, all three of their sons shared this bedroom."]

Other favorites include "What do you think of [current building]?", and "Does this [kitchen/bedroom/house] look like yours? (mostly a kid question). I've seen "Where are you folks from?" used very effectively to discuss travel times and transportation in the 1850s, leading into a discussion of the store's clientele, and shipment of goods.

With the exception of "Is this your first visit?" and "Are you having fun?", I try to avoid yes/no questions. A lot of people won't take this as an opportunity to start a conversation, as though they don't want to inconvenience the interpreter. While "Do you have any questions?" seems nice and broad, it's really too broad, and doesn't give the visitor much to work with.  When I've used it, I usually get "we're just looking", or "not really", which ends the conversation instead of starting it.  The people who have questions will manage to ask them.  If you must include it, establish the connection and conversation first, so that "Do you have any [more] questions" serves as a bridge between your proposed topics and the visitor's.

On the subject of other questions to avoid, I find "Did you know [fact]" to be inelegant, at best.  At worst, it can alienate your audience and undermine your credibility.  If you pick an obscure fact, the visitor may feel stupid or isolated; pick an easy one, and you're insinuating that they are ignorant; get it wrong, and you've absolutely destroyed any trust they had in you.  This can also happen if the 'fact' appears to reveal an agenda, or offers a overly-simplified view of a complex situation. [If you start a conversation with me by saying, "Did you know the Civil War was actually about states' rights?", you've just seriously undermined my trust in any information presented at your site.]

Other less helpful tactics includes haranguing the visitors about their modern clothing, and fussing about modern devices. Getting the vapors from women wearing pants may successfully convey the idea that women in the 1850s wore dresses (with bonus points for miasma theory). You also just put your visitors on the defensive, making them less likely to ask questions or otherwise interact with you.  Really, any verbal prodding or teasing needs to prodding back--used on a case-by-case basis where the visitor has already indicated that this is how they want to communicate.  Getting back to the dress example, I have seen and played with a few variations on the theme of pants and dresses--taking the visitors for dress reformers, or trail emigrants, or simply people who must be here to buy fabric--but I try to keep it non-confrontational and focused on the information content. Less "Women in trousers! I will avert my eyes from this immodesty!", and more "Ah, you must by disciples of Mrs. Bloomer, or perhaps have adopted this costume for ease of travel. If you are looking for dress goods, we have a large selection of cotton prints and delaines..."  Even so, this method can be hit-or-miss.  Use with caution.

Time spent pretending you don't know what a cell phone is, is time in which you are not talking to the visitor about the year you are trying to interpret. Except for the youngest children, the visitors already know cell phones didn't exist in the year 1855, and belaboring the point isn't adding anything to that knowledge. You will get people trying to 'trip' you up on occasion--I usually respond by answering a related, sincere question (Liz's post again). So, if they bring up cell phones, I might talk about telegraphs, letters, and the amount of time it takes to communicate across distances.  If I'm not in first-person, I might mention that telephones are over two decades in the future (and portable ones over a century).  If someone's really being snarky while I'm in character, I'll give them a smile and parse the Latin or Greek roots of the word ("Telephone--sound at a distance? That could be extremely useful, unless it's just a fancy term for 'shouting'.").

Melodrama wastes everyone's time.  Even if you find a receptive audience, we mostly aren't professional actors, and we aren't working from professionally written scripts--there are plenty of media options which do it better.  The strength of living history lies in truth, and in the specific details we can present to the public. Let's focus on what we can uniquely do well, instead of mediocre dramatics.

Making stuff up? Just NO. Say that you don't know. Refer them to another person or a reference book. Validate the question and express interest in figuring it out. Answer the nearest related question you can. Offer what relevant information you do have. Retreating in shame and horror isn't very welcoming, but it's less of a disservice than lying to people who are trusting you. 

I'd also advise against co-opting other people's impressions: talking about what that interpreter over there is doing robs your colleague of the chance to do their own interpreting. Also, they can almost certainly do it better. While I could point out the basics of the carpenter's tools or the blacksmith's forge, the actual artisans can give more detailed and accurate information, as well as actually demonstrating. I shouldn't spoil their audience.  And on the other side, as a textile interpreter, I really don't need another person making up facts about my clothing and crafts.  Given the choice between lying to the public or contradicting another interpreter... well, I don't do the former, but we just lost credibility either way.

Friday, September 21, 2018

Two Victorian Shirts (Past Patterns #011)

Revisiting Past Patterns #007, after a fashion, with two shirts made from its updated view B, aka pattern #011.

Shirt the first:
Linen shirt for 1850s 1860s reenacting, from Past Patterns #011.
Linen shirt

And shirt the second:


Cotton shirt for 1850s 1860s reenacting, from Past Patterns #011.
Cotton shirt.

The first shirt is made entirely from linen, the second from pimatex cotton.  At the request of the wearer, I made a few alterations to the basic pattern:

  • Reducing the length by ~8".  Last time I made this up, the recipient also requested it be shortened.
  • Using all one fabric (calls for linen bosom and cuffs, with the rest of the shirt in cotton)
  • Adding a third button at the top of the pleated bosom. The cravat, in theory, holds the collar in place, but after trying the first shirt out, the wearer requested an extra button at the top to stabilize things.
  • For the cotton shirt, the collar was lengthened.
Thoughts on this pattern:

Generally, I like this pattern. The shirt has a good shape, and there's some customization options presented (alternatives to the center front pleats), with citations.  It's also copied from an original shirt, with all the instructions for hand-sewing it. That being said, the pattern is not without it's quirks--such as the tiny triangles pieced into the sleeve, which serve no discernible purpose* except for making the seam hard to fell.  The instructions are mostly clear about each step, but there are times when additional information would be useful. For instance, it's never specified where the front bosom pieces should lap left over right or right over left; the pleats themselves are to be basted, but no future step mentions permanently stitching the pleats or removing the basting thread.

Twice I've made it up, and struggled to get everything cut from the allowed material; the third time, I had a lot left over.  For future use, instead of following the pattern envelop guides, I would establish the wearer's preferred length in advance, and then lay out all the pattern pieces to determine the amount of material needed.


*These are not gores for increasing mobility at the shoulder: they attach flat the sleeve, to make it more of a trapezoid shape. The same result can be achieved by overlapping the pattern pieces and cutting out the sleeve as one piece (less seam allowances). My only guess is that the original garment was pieced due to fabric limitations.

Wednesday, September 19, 2018

Hourglass Autograph Quilt, Piecing

After some fun with the ink (always test for water-fastness), I have finally assembled all of the squares into a quilt top.  The inspiration is an c. 1830-1850 quilt from Pennsylvania (options considered here, first update here).

Detail of hourglass quilt top
Cascading hourglasses just felt appropriate for this
(very meta about living history) quilt.

Mine is somewhat scaled down from the the original; I originally intended to make a 13 x 13 block quilt top, with striped border, which would work out to the full 105" square quilt.  When I actually started laying out the blocks, however, I realize just how overly generous such a quilt would be, and decided to scale it down to 11 x 11 with the border.  It's still quite large, and should prove comfortable when I next find myself sleeping on the ground at an event.

To start, I cut out sixty 6.5" white squares for the signatures.  I then cut some 244 4" squares (61 white, the other 183 out of reproduction fabric scraps, mostly dress left-overs).  These were each cut in half diagonally, giving the 488 triangles needed to make 61 hourglass blocks:

Hourglass patchwork block (broken plated variation) for reproduction 1850s quilt.
A sample block (sideways). This one is made from Elise's dress scraps, 
to accompany her autograph square.

As previously mentioned, the 'hourglass variation' here is basically a three-print broken plate with the white upper right and lower left corners merging into the background.  The trickiest bit was laying out the blocks to piece the top together--I kept shifting things around to avoid concentrating the darker or light prints in one area, or placing several blocks with the same print near each other.  Where I had dress fabric from a particular individual, I tried to put at least one piece of it adjacent to their signatures (and briefly tried to match favorite colors, though that endeavor was soon abandoned).  Of course, by time I actually started sewing the block together, all of the prints had migrated into clusters.

Victor Hugo quote on reproduction album quilt
This block of text was written in one attempt.
My name required three.


I supplemented the autograph blocks with quotations from period songs and favorite novels. The block right below center has a Victor Hugo quote which I have adopted as my living history motto:
L'histoire néglige presque toutes ces particularités, et ne peut faire autrement; l'infini l'envahirait. Pourtant ces détails, qu'on appelle à tort petits—il n'y a ni petits faits dans l'humanité, ni petites feuilles dans la végétation—sont utiles. C'est de la physionomie des années que se compose la figure des siècles. (Les Miserables, 1.3.1)
There's also one anachronistic quote which serves as my cheeky alternative living history motto:
Le seul courage est de parler à la première personne.
After the blocks were joined, I added chintz border.  At the moment, all three layers are basted together, and the long process of hand-quilting has commenced.  This quilt is about three times the surface area of my quilted petticoat, so I would estimate 180 hours of hand-quilting...except that I chose a triple diamond pattern which is much denser than the diamonds and lines of the petticoat.

Reproducton hourglass album quilt top
I pin with a little help from my friends.
Who happen to be books and/or bricks.

Saturday, September 15, 2018

Quilting Patterns

Still a work-in-progress, but I might as well post it.  Last winter I started hunting up all the pattern names/descriptions I could find for period quilting; that is, the motifs used for the actual quilting stitches, not the patchwork or applique designs.  Here are the ones from contemporary fiction:

"Oak Leaves" and "shells" are named in an 1859 story--"The Minister's Wooing"--in The Atlantic Monthly.

In, "My Economy Quilt" (The Lady's Repository 1860) , a grape leaf motif is used.

Vines in the border and diamonds in the body of a silk bridal quilt "Stray Leaves In An Old Journal" (The Literary Garland, 1850).

Octagon (hexagon?) patchwork in calico, quilted in "rectangles". Recollections of a Lifetime (1856)

(Note: hexagons tessellate with themselves, but octagons would require squares to fill the gaps).

Half-circles traced with chalk around a teacup form a "shell" motif, in Cedar Brook Stories (1864)

In another story, the young quilters are apparently working the corners of a quilt in "hearts and arrows", at their own initiative. "Judging From Appearances" (1855)

I think the description of a quilt as potentially "composed of stars or stripes, rising suns or crescents" refers to the patchwork, but it could also describe the quilting pattern. Clovernook.

A story in the American Agriculturalist (1847) has discussion about whether a quilt is to be quilted in "shells or diamonds, waves or feathers".

The American Girl's Book (1854) gives instructions for hexagon patchwork, with the finished piece quilted around the hexagons.

Quilting patterns in
Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine
October, 1858. Page 154.

Thursday, September 6, 2018

Eau De Cologne (1824)

The New Family Receipt Book (1824), pg 233-4
504. Eau de Cologne
Mix rectified spirit of wine, thirteen pounds; Hungary water, three pounds and a half; spirit of wine distilled from balm leaves, two pounds; essence of bergamot, three ounces; orange flower water, one pound; essence of lemon, an ounce; and essence of rosemary, a drachm. Shake this mixture well together in a large bottle and the liquor is made. It will in this ready way be very delicate and answer every requisite purpose but if superior delicacy be desired it may be obtained by distilling the above mixture or rather double the quantity of each ingredient in a gentle sand heat so as to draw off all the liquor with the exception of only two quarts left behind in the still.
Proportionately, that's 1 part rosemary to 8 parts lemon to 24 bergamot to 96 orange flower water to 192 balm to 336 Hungary water to 1248 spirits of wine. [See Hungary water post for apothecary measures]. For my initial batch here, I used 1 drop of essence of rosemary (in pipette that deliver 1/20 ml drops), and the rest in proportion.  Lacking a still (still), I ended up soaking lemon balm leaves in alcohol for a week to serve as the "spirit of wine distilled from balm leaves".  The result smelled nicely of lemon balm.

Eau de Cologne from 1824 receipt and Hungary Water
Eau de Cologne and the Hungary water used in it.
The cologne has a slight pink tint from the alkanet in the Hungary water.
The overall effect is interesting. I discovered that putting the liquid on a handkerchief makes a huge difference in the scent (the alcohol evaporates, so the others come through clearer)*.  I definitely picked out the rosemary and citrus elements, but overall it's hard to describe the scent--to me, at least, it's not so much a bouquet of recognizable odors, but rather a new scent, where whole > sum of parts.

I did find it interesting that this receipt duplicated the rosemary, which is both in the Hungary water and added to the Cologne as an oil.  The single drop of rosemary oil, however, initially overwhelmed everything else present.  In some other Hungary water receipts, the only scent is rosemary, which could be interesting to experiment with, and see how the Cologne differs in such a case.

I like this Eau de Cologne, and will definitely be using it as my scent of choice for history events (though the Hungary water on its own is very nice, too).

*Also, about 30 hours later, the handkerchief still smells like Eau de Cologne; the Hungary water handkerchief lasted an evening, but had faded by the next.

Monday, September 3, 2018

Hungary Water (1824)

From The New Family Receipt Book (1824)

510. French and much improved Method of making Hungary Water 
Take a large handful of the flowers and tender leaves of rosemary with a few of thyme lavender and sage then putting all of them into a thick glass bottle pour in a quart of spirits of wine; afterwards, merely to give it colour, put in a few pieces of alkanet root; instantly recork the bottle and shake it briskly till the water obtains a purple tinge. This is far preferable to any other Hungary water and particularly so if it be placed for at least a month exposed on sand or gravel to the heat of the Sun.
(page 235)
Rosemary, sage, thyme and "spirits of wine."
I initially forgot the lavender and added it later.

After two days in the sun, the liquid is pale yellow
and smells of rosemary and alcohol.

Alkanet added, and set overnight.
Decanted liquid is red, with a mild odor of rosemary and sage.

Saturday, September 1, 2018

Macassar Oil Revisited

Common hair oil is nothing more than olive or salad oil colored red with alkanet root, and scented. It is far too thin to be useful, and it soils more than enough. Castor oil is a far better application. but in its natural state it is as much too adhesive as olive oil is too thin. Castor oil, however, has the curious property of combining with spirit of wine by which elegant addition we may make it as thin as we please. The celebrated Macassar oil is of this kind.
--Godey's, November 1855
I previously made some of this "common hair oil", using the receipt denoted "Macassar oil" in Mrs. Bradley's Housekeeper's Guide (1853). As noted in Godey's, this is basically just colored, scented oil:
"Any quantity of sweet oil, and alkanet enough to give it a splendid red color. Scent with oil of bergamotte, lavender or lemon." 
The first batch I made (already mentioned) was sweet almond oil, scented with bergamot and colored with alkanet. For Brigade, I prepared a larger (16 oz) batch using olive oil, alkanet, and a few drops of rose oil. It worked just as well as the previous version, and the rose scent paired nicely with the light red color.  It was observed that the light red-pink tint of the oil did not actually effect the color of any of hair (black, brown, blond, or gray) that it was used on.

I've come across a number of other olive oil receipts which call for different scents, such as rosemary or orignanum oil, sans coloring agent (orignanum is the genus of oregano and marjoram); a macassar oil receipt calls for both of the proceeding (and repeated here); another macassar oil has colored olive oil scented with cinnamon, cloves, and thyme; rose hair oil with otto of roses and rosemary oil. Several of these appear to have been copied from the 1847 Household Book of Practical Receipts.

Anyway, I finally decided to try one of 'celebrated' castor oil versions of Macassar oil for comparison. An Introduction to Practical Pharmacy (1856) calls for mixing 10 fluid ounces of castor oil with with 2 fl ounces of "very strong alcohol" and 2 fluid drachms of oil of jessamine.  Translated from apothecary notation*, that's 1:8:40 ratio of essential oil to alcohol to castor oil. The "spirits of wine" named in Godey can refer to ethanol itself (generally distilled out of wine, in this period), or to brandy.  Since the receipt I'm working from uses the expression "very strong alcohol", I decided to use vodka.


Macassar hair oil, 1856 receipt
Macassar Oil
The thinned oil is a bit more viscous than the sweet oil version, but I noticed no difference in using it.


*Literally:
10 grains = 1 scruple (϶)
3 scruples = 1 drachm (Ê’)
8 drachms = 1 ounce (Ê’ with an extra 7 on top)
12 ounces = 1 pound (lb, line crossing the l)

Incidentally, the scruple sign is a reverse lunate epsilon, the drachm is a lowercase ezh, and the other two I have yet to find on a windows character map.