Thursday, April 13, 2023

Bustles, 1870s

Still working my way through the railroad event costumes. My own character was from 1873, so among my other accoutrements, I needed to make a bustle. I wanted something distinct enough to say '1870s bustle period' but also small enough to be practical under a simple cotton dress (without a train).

So, I thought it was meet to check out the options.

We have some lovely transitional hoops which have that bustle shape at the top back, like so:

Bustle cage from LACMA c.1862-1870.
A little early for my purposes

The V&A has several lovely examples of this style in various shapes. If I needed evening wear, I'd probably try for something like this (or else a covered version like these):

"Princess Louise Jupon" 1871, VAM.
 

Fortunately, there are also a plethora of shorter bustle options in various materials:

Evolved skeleton skirt. Bustle, c.1872-4. MET.

 

Fabric and steel "crinolette", c.1870. VAM. A similar one from LACMA.

Down-filled bustle pad, c.1875. VAM. [Another.]


Not sure about the shaping, but this one would be easy to make.
Bustle, 1870-5. LACMA.

But I think my favorite might be the horsehair pads. They come in several variations with ruffles and puffs, and combinations thereof:

The winner. Bustle, c.1875. LACMA.

 

Demorest's Monthly Magazine also shows several varieties of horsehair bustles in July 1875, including a long version worn under a trained gown, and three of the shorter ones.

Short horsehair bustle #2.





No comments:

Post a Comment

Thanks for commenting!