Friday, December 29, 2023

Corset, 1870s

Another from the summer railroad events: the corset for my 1873 ensemble. I used the same material and hardware as on the corset for an 1890s ensemble. The pattern is one that was custom-made for me by Marie of The Fitting Room, right before everything shut down back in 2020. It's based on the corset design on page of Corsets and Crinolines.

Shaped-seam corset.

The material is a double layer of cotton coutil, with self-fabric binding, and 1/4" spring steels throughout. Busk and steels from Wawak; I forget whether this piece of coutil was from Renaissance Fabrics, Lacis, or somewhere else, which is unfortunate, as I'd prefer not to order it again.  It's a decently stout twill, but heavier and not quite as stiff as my favorite coutil.

On this garment I really tried to improve my ironing technique. Each seam was pressed closed and open,on both sides, with the clapper to help set them. For the more pronounced curves, I steamed and ironed the fabric over a dressmaker's ham to help set the shape. So far it seems to have paid off with a smooth finish and a garment that can't lie flat 

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