It's time for another hair post; let's look at those lovely face-framing side braids of the early 1860s. This is one of my staple styles for ACW: the braids make for a stable base, and it's the first arrangement for which I found actual period instructions.
September, 1862 issue of Godey's (picture on page 226, description on page 311).
Braids with Rolls, original method:
Step 1: T-part the hair and put the back into your favorite low bun/chignon (see "Basic Hairstyle", steps 1-5).
Step 2: Brush the side hair out from the temples, as for a roll. (see "Basic Hairstyle", first pic of step 6).
Step 3: Braid the side hair, keeping the top as loose as possible.
Step 4: Twist the braid back, forming the roll. A brush and pomade may be useful
I neglected to use pomade at this step, and things got a bit untidy. |
Step 5: Coil the braid around the bun, tucking in the ends, and pinning it in place.
Although that is the period method, I've never been able to get a really nice roll from it. Here's my slight variation, which seems to get the desired effect a little easier.
Alternate Step 3: Give the brushed hair a one or two twists "up" (ie, clockwise when twisting the left side, CCW on the right).
Alternate Step 4: Holding the roll in place, braid the hair below it.
Alternate Step 5: Twist the roll again, if needed, until desired shape is achieved. Then take the braid to the back and pin it in place.
Here's the front view:
Viewer's Right: Roll & braid from period method Viewer's Left: Roll & braid from my variant. |
The back, of course, is it's usual twisted mess of braids. |
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