HFF 5.14: Topsy-Turvy

The Challenge: Topsy-Turvy

The Recipe: "Turn-under Pie" or Apple Pie No. 4 from Mrs. Bliss's The Practical Cook Book

The Date/Year and Region: 1860, Philadelphia

How Did You Make It:  I made a half-batch of the No. 6 paste ("half-puff paste"), by cutting 4oz of butter into 2 cups flour with 1/2 tsp salt. I added one beaten egg and a little water to make a paste, then rolled it out twice, folding in another 2 oz of butter each time. The instructions said to make it like the previous puff paste after giving the starting amounts, which left me confused about whether this included layering in the extra butter--in the end, I used half as much butter as the previous recipe called to be layered in, since it otherwise would have duplicated No. 5 but with an egg.

Once the paste was rolled out, I put a crust on the pie tin, then peeled and sliced three medium-sized Granny Smith apples, which neatly filled the pan. I added a top crust, taking care to set it on top without pinching the two crusts together. I baked the pie for a bit over 45 min, though the crust was just starting to brown. I lifted off the top crust, added 1/4 cup white sugar, a small pinch of salt and a generous sprinkling of powdered nutmeg to the apple mush, removed about half of the apple, then replaced the crust upside down and spread the remaining apple over it.

Total Time: Just over an hour, including cooking time.

Total Cost: About $4 for butter and apples

How Successful Was It?: It tastes great. I'm not entirely sold on the 'flipping the crust' step actually contributing anything worthwhile, but it was something to do. I think the reduced butter amount was necessary--I've had some mixed experiences using period puff paste recipes, and this avoided the worst of those problems. The crust was rich, but it wasn't leaking butter. The sugar amount was a guess, but it suits the tartness and quantity of apples; next time I would use a hair less nutmeg. 

The half batch of pastry was a good idea for this pan, and I had sufficient leftover paste to make third crust. The apple cooked down a lot, so next time I use this pan I'll aim for 4-5 instead of three and really mound them up. I'd also be tempted to find an apple that holds up better to cooking.

Additional note: it says to serve hot. This is absolutely imperative. I couldn't eat the whole pie in one evening, but by the next morning it was distinctly un-appetizing. If I make this in the future, it'll be for an event with enough people that left-overs aren't a concern.

How Accurate Is It?: I used the modern oven and a modern apple variety, but prepared the ingredients with hand tools. I did use my new repro tin pie pan, and especially liked how easy it was to shape the paste along the scallops.

Upside-down apple pie.

The apples before cooking.