Tuesday, April 21, 2020

Cutting Stays c. 1780

I'm taking a short break from sewing masks to mentally recharge with a different project. Back before Things Fell Apart, I commissioned three custom corset patterns from Marie at The Fitting Room. The mock-ups fit beautifully, and I was very excited to start work on the late 1890s corset as the foundation for an 1896 opera ensemble. That performance of La Boheme has since been cancelled.

So I decided to try a completely different era, un-shadowed by disappointment or uncertain deadlines, and started working in earnest on the 18th century stays.

Off-white fabric with pattern pieces and silver-colored dressmaking sheers.
With very careful layout, I got all the pieces cut
(on the grain) from 1 yard of 56" wide canvas.

Several original garments were considered, with this pattern primarily based on a c.1780 set of stays in Nora Wraugh's Corsets and Crinolines. I debated making it up with front-lacing (or both front- and back-lacing), but decided to try this first set with back only, as it appears to be the most common arrangement of the time.

So far, I've just cut two layers of linen canvas (Fabrics-Store's 8 oz bleached, if I recall correctly), for each of the pieces. There will also be a lining of finer cotton or linen. Eventually.

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