Book Review: The Medieval Tailor's Assistant

I'm not sure how I missed writing this one up the first time around. Or last December when I otherwise cleared my book backlog. And now that I've made just about every hair covering in it, it's long past time for a review.

The Medieval Tailor's Assistant by Sarah Thursfield. Do check out the author's website: there are pretty pictures, as well as an explanation of the differences between the first and second editions of the book. The copy I'm reviewing is the 2012 printing of the first edition.

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The book is subtitled "Making Common Garments 1200-1500", and what you see is what you get: men's, women's, and children's garments for a 300-year period covering the late middle ages. Accessories, undergarments, and outerwear are included--everything except shoes.

All of this is covered in ~220 pages, so efficiency is key. Construction techniques and fitting/block-making instructions are given at the outset (including 4 pages of illustrated handsewing stitches); consequently, the individual projects are handled with a line-drawing, a graphed cutting diagram, and a few sentences or short paragraphs about construction. Period materials are also discussed.

Note also, due to the long time frame, when each garment is appropriate (they are marked, and most of the period illustrations include a citation). Attempts are made to denote which garments are worn together and during what time frame.  My favorite is the timeline on page 14 which shows approximate date ranges on the different garments. Featured garments include shirts/smocks, braes, hose, cotes, doublets, kirtles, surcoates, cotehardies, gowns, cloaks, hats, caps, head-dresses, and such accessories as bags, apron, mittens, and belts. Additionally, the chapter opening for each main garment (gowns, cotehardies) include line drawings of the relevant under- and over- layers for both men and women.

I have no real complaints about this book. The number of photographs is few, but the ones that are included are lovely (and the second edition has more!), while the line drawings are both plentiful and quite informative. If you like very detailed, incremental instructions, you may find this book a little daunting. Personally, I found it enjoyable to use: I love clear cutting diagrams.

Stars: 5

Accuracy: Good. The illustrations come from recognizable period images, but I could do with a couple more in-line citations.

Difficulty: Intermediate. The focus is on the cutting and assembly geometry, which I found easy to follow; the construction and stitches are much more straightforward than in some other periods. Persons who aren't comfortable with altering patterns and fitting may have difficulty.

Overall Impression: An easy-to-use, all-in-one guide to making medieval costumes along historic lines. Good for dressing men, women, and children from the skin out. You'll likely want to supplement with your own research (more about colors, material, context), but this books will be very helpful for figuring out how to render period images into garments. This is an excellent resource for costumers, designers, and cosplayers.