Wednesday, April 3, 2019

Wimple Wednesday: 13th Century Kerchief and Plain Wimple

Experiment time: let's play with some medieval and early modern women's head-coverings.

[Context: I got frustrated with a person online (quelle horreur!) making opprobrious comments about the use of head-coverings by women in the modern world.  These comments may have been directed at practitioners of a certain non-local-majority religion. As such, I decided it was time to remind people that 'western' costume, until very recently, included head-coverings for men and women outdoors; indoor and outdoor hair-coverings for women have been part of that same tradition for over a thousand years, though they declined in popularity by the mid-19th century.]

I'm starting c.1200 CE, because that gives me an excuse to play with all the fun forms in Thursfield's The Medieval Tailor's Assistant, and to start week 1 with an actual wimple. The overall theme is 'unstructured/semi-structered hair coverings', but we don't have any days that make a good alliteration with 'veil' or 'kerchief' or 'coif', so wimples it is.*

Selfie of the author, wearing a fine white linen wimple under the chin and a loose kerchief of the same draped over the head.
Still not good with selfies.
The soft linen is quite comfy, though.

The wimple (the bit under the chin and over the ears) is a 12" by 36" rectangle of fine linen; the kerchief (bit draped over the head) is a square yard of the same. I'm tempted to experiment with a slightly shallower rectangle here instead of the full square--it's a good length along the front but perhaps too long down the back.

Both wimple and kerchief are pinned to the fillet, a double-layer bias-cut band of linen which is tied around the head. It's made of the same lightweight linen (3.5 oz handkerchief weight from Fabric-store.com), with two pairs of 1/4" wide linen tapes to fasten it at the back.  The wimple and kerchief are attached to the filet with three pins; I used the brass clothing pins from Burnley and Trowbridge.

*Not all offerings will feature throat-covering wimples. They all will cover some/all of the hair. I'm sticking to less structured items like headrails, kerchiefs and caps, both because it takes a ton of time to make hats, bonnets, and elaborately padded headdresses, but also because these things frequently cover the hair in addition to a outer bonnet or hat, and also in situations where outer headgear is dispensed with.

2 comments:

  1. My standard head covering in SCA garb is wimple and veil.

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    Replies
    1. Nice! I'm usually doing 16th century, and so playing around with different coifs. I'd like to find some earlier events/sites to attend...

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