Soft Crown Straw Bonnet, 1858

From Frank Leslie's New Family Magazine, October 1858:

WILDE'S HAT--This pretty hat is in a style which is just now very fashionable; the groundwork is of fine white Belgian straw surrounded with a border of plaid velvet with a cap crown also of plaid velvet separated into puffings by narrow bands of velvet edged with lace. Encircling the crown is a row of rich Chantilly lace, which nearly covers the straw front, the points just touching the velvet border. Very wide strings barred with velvet, side ruche and bandeaus of small mixed blossoms completes this handsome October bonnet. 

Plaid silk velvet not being an option, I decided to use a silk tafetta for the crown, binding, and ties. I also changed the color palette to be more spring-like, with white lace and white velvet ribbon. The front flowers are not visible, so I chose to use a mixture of blue cornflowers and violets for the "bandeau of small mixed blossoms." I omitted the lace from the edges of velvet ribbon because I couldn't get the scale to look right. The picture seems to suggest a sort of double-layer curtain, but as this is not confirmed in the description, I decided to keep it a simple single layer.

Back view.

The pattern is based off of one of the Timely Tresses round '50s bonnets (possibly the smaller cutting line on the Ada Gay). The brim is machine sewn from hemp braid. The rest of the bonnet is hand-sewn. The ties are narrow-hemmed strips of the same taffeta used for the crown, binding, facing, and bavolet, with both curtain and crown lined in cotton net for extra body; I believe this fabric came from Portland's Fabric Depot. The lace overlay and frill are both cotton levers lace from Fine French Laces.

From the front. The flowers aren't so dark as they appear.