Saturday, January 26, 2019

HFF 3.2: Looking Back


The Challenge: Looking Back Improve upon (or try an alternate version of) a previous challenge, or a recipe you are already comfortable with. I revised the hot cross buns I made for challenge 2.20, with some insight from the other 1850s receipt I tried last Easter.

The Receipt:  Cross Buns from Five Thousand Receipts: In All The Useful And Domestic Arts, by Colin MacKenzie.

Cross buns
Put 2 1/2 lbs. of fine flour into a wooden bowl, and set it before the fire to warm; then add 1/2 a lb. sifted sugar, some coriander seed, cinnamon and mace powdered fine; melt 1/2 lb of butter in half pint of milk; when it is as warm as it can bear the finger, mix with it three table spoonsful of thick yeast, and a little salt; put it to the flour, mix it to a paste, and make the buns as directed the last receipt. [...cover it over and set it before the fire an hour to rise, then make it into buns, put them on a tin, set them before the fire for a quarter of an hour, cover over with flannel, then brush them with very warm milk and bake them of a nice brown in a moderate oven.] Put a cross on the top not deep.
The Date/Year and Region: 1854, American (Philadelphia), adapted from a British source

How Did You Make It:  I upped the 6 tsp of yeast I used previously to  7.5 tsp of dry yeast (this is proportionately closer to the amount I used in the other receipt, which gave a lighter roll).

Mixed together 2.5 lbs of all-purpose flour, 1/2 lb of granulated sugar,  4 tsp cinnamon, 4 tsp coriander, and 2 tsp mace. All spices were pre-ground; I increased the amount of coriander and mace from last time. I melted 1/2 lb of butter, added 1 cup of skim milk to the butter, 1 tsp of salt, and the yeast. After letting the yeast wake-up for a few minutes, I mixed it into the dry ingredients. I added a little milk while kneading, because the dough was really dry, and let let it proof in the oven for 1 hour.
Shaped and let rise a few minutes more, then baked at 350F for 20 minutes. I forgot to brush with milk, so the rolls turned out a little paler than they should have.


Time to Complete: About 3 hours, include rising and baking time.

Total Cost: All ingredients on hand--which is why I made these: I'd planned to revisit the apple-substitute-for-quince pudding receipt, only to have the store in which I finally found quinces no longer has them. I then tried Beeton's macaroon receipt--again--only to run into some major problems with the structural integrity of egg whites.

How Successful Was It? Lighter than the first time I made them, and spicier than the second. I could probably tweak the spices more, but this is a good proportion. The main issue is that the dough is still really dry, so it's not especially pretty. I need to keep working on that.

How Accurate Is It? As previously noted, I'm using dry yeast (modern!) and these were largely a commercial product in the 1850s. I'd like to think they're getting better, though. And that spice combination of cinnamon, coriander, and mace is delightfully Victorian.


A pink transfer-ware plate containing four irregularly round buns, pale brown in color, with a cross cut into the tops.
Hot Cross Buns. These were the photogenic ones.

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