Costume in Detail: 1730-1930 by Nancy Bradfield
What it says on the cover: 200 years of costume in 380 pages. More specifically, it's western women's clothing, primarily dresses, but with a healthy mix of accessories and some undergarments included.
Garments are mostly dated within a 5-year span; each dress gets a 2-page spread, including front and back views, interesting details, and often interior or fastener details. Several also include a sketch of a similar dress being worn (generally adapted from contemporary portraiture or fashion plates). The accessory items tend to be grouped by date and item type, with six or eight sharing a two-page spread; alternatively, some accessory sketches are paired with a contemporary dress (for instance, there's a c. 1830 wrapper which is accompanied by sketches of a corset, flounced bustle and other undergarments).
The book is arranged chronologically, though the dates overlap enough that it's worth flipping around a target date for similar pieces. The emphasis is on the illustrations, with minimal text descriptions specifying material, style, and where the item is from. I liked the inclusion of measurements with many of the garments.
Overally, I think this is a valuable reference for understanding how women's dresses have been constructed, and as a style guide over time. It doesn't have the graphed pattern pieces of a Janet Arnold book, but uses the saved space to add even more illustrations and garments. If you're looking for eye-candy, be warned that it's all monochrome sketches; I find this very useful for lines and construction information, but it's not the full-color glamour shots of 19th Century Costume in Detail.
Stars: 5
Accuracy: All original dresses; details of cut and construction made readily available.
Difficulty Level: Useful at all levels, though some background (or additional reference books to cross-consult) would be useful to use this book fully.
Strongest Impression: A nice, encyclopedic book for dress styles and construction details. For making clothing, it's best used in conjunction with other references for sewing/cutting techniques. A good visual reference for designers and those interested in dress history.
Garments are mostly dated within a 5-year span; each dress gets a 2-page spread, including front and back views, interesting details, and often interior or fastener details. Several also include a sketch of a similar dress being worn (generally adapted from contemporary portraiture or fashion plates). The accessory items tend to be grouped by date and item type, with six or eight sharing a two-page spread; alternatively, some accessory sketches are paired with a contemporary dress (for instance, there's a c. 1830 wrapper which is accompanied by sketches of a corset, flounced bustle and other undergarments).
The book is arranged chronologically, though the dates overlap enough that it's worth flipping around a target date for similar pieces. The emphasis is on the illustrations, with minimal text descriptions specifying material, style, and where the item is from. I liked the inclusion of measurements with many of the garments.
Overally, I think this is a valuable reference for understanding how women's dresses have been constructed, and as a style guide over time. It doesn't have the graphed pattern pieces of a Janet Arnold book, but uses the saved space to add even more illustrations and garments. If you're looking for eye-candy, be warned that it's all monochrome sketches; I find this very useful for lines and construction information, but it's not the full-color glamour shots of 19th Century Costume in Detail.
Stars: 5
Accuracy: All original dresses; details of cut and construction made readily available.
Difficulty Level: Useful at all levels, though some background (or additional reference books to cross-consult) would be useful to use this book fully.
Strongest Impression: A nice, encyclopedic book for dress styles and construction details. For making clothing, it's best used in conjunction with other references for sewing/cutting techniques. A good visual reference for designers and those interested in dress history.
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