Tuesday, October 15, 2019

Opera Coiffure, 1856 (first attempt)

Two engraved images (front and back view) of a fashionable hairstyle from the late 1850s, with double rolls on the side and a back coil of hair surrounded by feathers.
Opera Coiffure, suitable for a young married lady, Godey's, 1856.

Meantime we open our own novelties, commencing with a simple but extremely tasteful headdress, suited to a young married lady, for opera, or an evening reception.
Fig. 1.—Front view, showing the division of the hair into two rouleaux which are marked by two small jewelled or ornamented hair-pins, placed over the ear; these are softly shaded by the outline of the plumes at the back of the head.
Fig. 2.—The back hair twisted into a smooth coil, on each side of which pure white ostrich plumes are arranged turning in towards it at the end. Plumes are sometimes worn by young ladies, but are more suitable for those who have a right to be addressed as "Madam," though not sufficiently staid for chaperones.
--Godey's, November 1856

My first (very bad) attempt at the hairstyle. It was a Murphy's Law sort of day, but posting these pictures will hopefully guilt me into re-doing them properly as I've been putting off for a month. The main issues I need to address are:

  1. Making new rats that fit under half the side-hair. The ones I usually use could not be positioned securely and out of sight. Parting the hair on a diagonal rather than vertically will likely help.
  2. Anchoring the smooth coil at the back effectively. After the second failure, I threw it into a braid to make it stay put.
  3. Using the right feathers. All my ostrich feathers went into hiding last Opera Night, so I ended up using mirabeau. They really didn't work.


The author, hair arranged in two twists on either side of the face, each twist topped with a hairpin containing a pearl cluster.
Front rolls. They need to be done over rats (not these small twists).

A back view of the author, wearing light brown hair in a large braided coil, with white mirabeau feathers around it.
Braided rather than smooth coil. And the mirabeau (above)
don't really give the same effect as ostrich.

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