Continuing from
the research post, which got too long.
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Bonnets from "Der Bazar", May 1865 |
So, spring 1865 fanchons, to recap:
- Have three corners, like a "half handkerchief"
- Have cheek tabs
- Sit close to the face at the sides and peak up at the top (but less than the spoon bonnets did)
- Have a little trim and some lace under the brim (but less than before)
- Have soft crowns (description, January, Peterson's)
- OR appear to be cut in one piece (images showing brim-crown combo; February-April, Peterson's)
- OR have no crown (May-summer, Peterson's)
- Have little to no curtain (may have a short ruffle or some trim along the back edge)
- Some bonnet ties continue either across the middle of the brim, or along the now-curtain-free back edge
- Are "easily made at home". The editor of Peterson's thinks this means the fashion establishment will keep pushing the "empire" bonnet, but didn't think a pattern useful to include.
Some poking around eventually produced a diagram of a '68 fanchon (courtesy of
Cornell University's Library) in Harper's Bazaar for May 9, 1868:
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Harper's Bazaar, page 436, 5/9/1868 |
(Just to annoy me,
Google books finally turned up the same page; neither, however seems to contain the elusive "Fashion Supplement XIII", which promises a pattern)
Close-ups:
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1868 Bonnet wire diagram, Harper's |
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1868 Fanchon frame diagram, Harper's |
Der Bazar has some schematics a little closer to the target date (again, without the supplement which promises a cutting diagram):
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Der Bazar, January 1865 |
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Der Bazar, April 1865 |
The '68 images are crown-free, but it's still there in the '65 images, however abbreviated.
For the actual drafting, I started by cutting a triangular piece (like a handkerchief folded in half) out of newsprint, and fiddling with the length and depth until it sat properly. I then drew in the cheek tabs, and tweaked those until a satisfactory arrangement was attained. This suits for the crown-less "May" fanchons. For the earlier winter-spring styles, I added a small semi-circular half-crown as in the January image from Der Bazar. Small darts on the lower edge help to shape this piece.
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c. 1865 Fanchon pattern with cheek tabs (self-draped) |
The actual bonnet forms are cut of buckram, with millinery wire around the edges to help shape them (cotton crinoline bias tape covers the wires).
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Fanchon form (no crown) |
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Fanchon form, partial crown |
In comparison to the Der Bazar image, the partial crown should be deeper and a little less abrupt at the transition, but I haven't been about to make that shape work in paper. Hopefully, the silk and trim will cover these minor sins.
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