Fingerloop Braid Color Variations

Two fingerloop braids, with bonus whetstone and shears.

Getting ready for Faire, and realized I never posted these fingerloop braids from my last 16th century event. They're braids #4 & #6 ("A Lace Baston", "An Endented Lace") from Tak V Bowes Departed. Both have the same braiding patterns as #2 "A Round Lace of Five Loops", which I previously used as purse strings. I've technically made #6 before (the endented braid for a drawstring on the sweetbag project), but revisiting it in conjunction with the others really helped me internalize how the color patterns work.

Close up on the patterns: stripes and chevrons.

All three of these are the same braiding pattern. Number #2 (the black purse string) just uses 5 loops of the same material, giving a plain round cord. Number #6 (above, tied on the whetstone) uses two loops of one color and three of the other, each starting on separate hands, so the colors alternate and change place as you work; this produces the chevron design. Number #4 also uses five identical bicolor 'loops' made by tying a thread of one color to a thread of the other: this produces the vertical lines down the cord IF you keep the loops aligned.

It's probably obvious to everyone else, but I found this this experiment very helpful for improving my understanding of how the braiding really works. The patterns were also nice training tools for keeping tracking of your loops (chevron) and picking up the right side of the loop (stripe). The solid color looks more forgiving, but makes it harder to tell where errors occurred. I'd honestly recommend that anyone starting on fingerloop braiding try all three of these variant braids together as an exercise.

Bicycling Skirt, 1950s

 A quick project from one of the 1950s Haslan books: a bicycling skirt. I made it up in mid-weight linen, so it photographs horrible, but is really comfortable to wear in the current heat-wave.

Bicycling Skirt, 30 seconds after ironing

Even with felling the seams (necessary to keep the linen from unravelling in the wash), this pattern made up quickly: two hours from cut pieces to finished garment. It's basically a four-piece, shaped-seam, mid-calf-length skirt with each piece extended at the center front/back. This pattern was a bonus at the end of the book, so there was no garment illustration, just the draft with instructions to take a large pleat the center front and back. 

 

My construction process began with joining up the left front/back pieces into one left "leg" and the right front/back pieces into another, then hemming each leg, sewing the two together at the fork (basically making a pair of giant shorts) and then fitting it into a waistband using a large inverted box-pleat at the center front and center back. This puts all the extra fabric in the center and provides lots of ease for movement. With no fastening information, I put a zipper in the right side-seam with a hook/bar at the waistband. 

I am mostly happy with the result: it's comfortable to wear, and easy to take on and off. In appearance, the skirt is adequate: neither sloppy nor super flattering. I used a new zipper-insertion method Jessica showed me, to good effect--you baste the seam, sew the zipper to each seam allowance, and cut the basting--it goes in quickly, and makes a functional fastener, albeit a visible one. The waistband is self fabric, folded in half. The instructions had it assembled in four slightly sloped pieces, but also called for folding it down, would have made a mess of the sloped pieces. I instead used a rectangular band with straight sides. I think a shaped waistband (two separate layers) could make a lovely variation in the future.

Next time (and there will be many more), I will put a pocket in the side seam opposite the zipper. Honestly, I'll probably add one to this skirt within a week. I'll also skip the small pleats I added to the waist at the skirt's side seams, as the fullness is generous enough through the hips without it, and it only makes the lines look awkward. Until I actually get good at zippers, I probably won't be making any of these split skirts for smart ensembles, but I do intend to make another one or two for practical summer daywear. This skirt is much more comfortable than jeans or even shorts for walking, gardening, pitching tents, and other summery activities. The split skirt has most of the benefits of a skirt (flowy, draping, loose fit) and of shorts (protection from chafing and accidental exposure). Each leg is very generously cut, so it might be possible to have problems with the skirt flying up, but it would take some pretty extreme gymnastics to make that an issue.

HFF 5.26: Reflection

The Challenge: Reflection. Give yourself a second chance at any previous challenge or at a dish you've made before. Fix something that went wrong, or try a new variation of an old favorite.

The Recipe: I decided to revisit my most troublesome receipt from this season: "A Light Cake to Bake in Cups" from the heartfelt challenge.

After consulting with noted bread expert Quinn, I decided to increase the liquid in this recipe (ie, interpret 1 wineglass as more than 1.5 oz, which is an option, since it seems to mean between 0.5 and 4oz depending on the receipt). She also observed that the ingredient list has some similarities to rum baba, and advised borrowing techniques from such a recipe.

The Date/Year and Region: 1852, New York

How Did You Make It: I once again started by waking up the yeast, this time using 2 Tbsp of yeast in 4 oz of warm water (double the yeast of the previous attempt). After about 10 minutes I added 2oz of white wine and 4 oz of butter (melted). I then mixed together the 4 oz granulated sugar, 1 lb flour, and a generous 1/4 tsp nutmeg, and kneaded that into the liquids. It worked into a smooth dough in a matter of minutes, and I then let it rise in a 100F oven until doubled (not the 1 hour in the instructions, but closer to 4 hours). I then gently kneaded it again, filled three round tins with dough, mixed in a scant handful of currant into the remainder, and divided that between 2 oval tins. These went back into the oven to rise for 1 hour (I meant 15 min but forgot to retrieve them), then baked for 25 min at 325F.

Total Time: About 6 hours including rising and baking time.

Total Cost: I had everything on hand.

How Successful Was It?: Distinct improvement over last time. Still not quite what I'd call 'light', but certainly lighter than last time. The flavor worked out well (currants, wine, and nutmeg, in that order). Even cooking much lower than the modern recipe recommended (I don't want to risk my tins), the tops on these browned in less than 10 minutes, so I ended up watching them very carefully for the rest of the time.

How Accurate Is It? The technique remains conjectural, but at least this one was more of an educated guess. As before, I used active dry yeast in water to substitute for the fresh yeast. I took 1 wineglass for 2 oz, which seems to have worked much better for the liquid balance. I did opt for the round and oval tins this time, since the original recipe called for "cups" rather than "queencake tins" in all their fun glory. Used pre-ground nutmeg because I still can't source whole ones, and Barefoot "buttery chardonnay" for the wine, since that's what I had on hand.

Lighter this time. Also in 'cups' after a fashion.

Original: Embroidered Collar, c.1850

Woman's collar, American, c.1850. From LACMA.

 This one is worth clicking through for the close-ups. This is one of the most densely embroidered collars I've ever seen: the semi-sheer fabric is barely visible around the thick (couched?) embroidery motif, with dozens of worked eyelets creating a net-like background to the scallops.

Apron (Workwoman's Guide)

Another recent project: a bib apron (fig 11 no 11) from The Workwoman's Guide (1838). This is is meant for a friend who has recently taken up tin-smithing, and wanted an extra layer to protect her dress from abrasion and snags. Therefore, I used a heavy cotton shirting fabric from Family Heirloom Weavers. The cotton tape shoulder straps are in the historic instructions, though the design is given as being for a girl or teen. I went this route since the intended wearer strongly dislikes pinner aprons, and it seemed a prudent compromise to get that upper protective layer without pins.

One apron with bib and shoulder straps.

The skirt is made from one panel (~54" after washing), which felt scant from my usual mid-century apron expectations. The instructions, however, insist that one breadth of fabric (as little as 36") is sufficient for working aprons.

HFF 5.25: Picnic

The Challenge: Picnic. Make a food to be eaten outside or on the go.

The Recipe: Chicken Salad from The Godey's Lady's Book Receipts and Household Hints. I set about looking for picnic receipts from the 1850s/1860s, and found that after generic 'salad' the most commonly named varieties (in a picnic setting) were lobster salad and chicken salad.

Chicken Salad--Mince the white meat of a chicken fine or pull it in bits; chop the white parts of celery; prepare a salad dressing thus: Rub the yelks of hard boiled eggs smooth with a spoon, put to each yelk a teaspoonful of made mustard, half as much salt, a tablespoonful of oil and a wineglass of strong vinegar; put the celery on a large dish; lay the chicken on that; then pour it over the dressing. Lettuce cut small in the place of celery may be used. Cut the whites of the eggs in rings to garnish the salad Turkey meat prepared in the same way makes almost as good a dish 

The Date/Year and Region: 1870, Philadelphia

How Did You Make It: Having no leftover chicken, I started by pan-frying a chicken tender and boiling an egg.  When done, I cut the chicken into small pieces, and sliced the egg into rounds. I removed the yolk from the egg, mashed it with a spoon, and then stirred in 1 tsp of mustard, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 Tbsp olive oil, and finally 1/4 cup white wine vinegar (~2 oz, which is one "wineglass" equivalent according to some sources). I then divided up a small head of lettuce, arranged the chicken on it, poured the dressing over, and finished by arranging the egg whites along the edges.

Total Time: About 10 minutes to arrange, after the chicken and egg are cooked.

Total Cost: Very little. Less than a dollar for the amount of egg and chicken I used, with the lettuce coming from my garden.

How Successful Was It?: Too much vinegar. It overwhelmed the flavors and made me drink a ton of water. What little I could taste beside that, seemed nice. This is very similar to other 19th century chicken salads I've made, but what I found appealing about this one was its simplicity. I don't have any cucumbers or beets or borage in the garden yet (only lettuce, endive, and the very first nastrutium), so I liked that this receipt would work in the early summer days when I have lots of lettuce to use and little else. Unlike Beeton's delightful recipe, this one also doesn't need milk for the dressing, which would be convenient for travel, allergies, and times when I don't have milk on hand. Next time, I would scale the vinegar down to 1 Tbsp (maybe up to 2 if needed after tasting).

How Accurate Is It? I used an actual heirloom lettuce from this period (Tom Thumb), so that was fun. I actually only tried that variety because it was from my main era, and found therein a very easy lettuce that grows fast, tastes nice, and is perfectly-sized for a single serving of salad.

 

 

Chicken Salad (1870): probably ok with less vinegar.

HFF 5.24: The Tiffany Problem

The Challenge: The Tiffany Problem. Try making a dish that's older than you'd expect; something that seems like it should be an anachronism, but isn't. 

Quinn's 19th century macaroni was how I was introduced to the 'Tiffany Problem' in the first place, so it seemed fitting to finally make some for myself.

The Recipe: To Dress Macaroni from Mrs. Hale's New Cook Book

The Date/Year and Region: 1857, Philadelphia

How Did You Make It: Per the instructions, I boiled the noodles (~4-5oz of cavatappi) until soft, drained them, then returned them to the pan with milk (1 cup), butter (~2 Tbsp), a dash of salt, and a dash of cayenne pepper. I grated ~2 oz of smoked Gruyère cheese into the pan, and stirred it all together for ~10 minutes while the oven pre-heated. I then poured the macaroni into a glass dish, sprinkled over it the smallest amount of bread crumbs I could justify, and let it sit in a cooling oven for 10 minutes to brown.

Total Time: 40 minutes

Total Cost: About $3

How Successful Was It?: Very tasty. I thought at first that I should have used more cheese (since the sauce seemed a bit thin), but the flavor was lovely and I found that after stirring the noodles around, they picked up the sauce very nicely. I don't usually like bread crumbs on pasta, but it actually didn't bother me this time.

I really liked this receipt as I made it this time, and wouldn't change anything. If I had to pick something to alter, I might try adding just a touch more cheese and/or pepper, but I'm not sure either of those would necessarily be an improvement. I would, however, add the salt and pepper to the milk before the noodles go it, just so it's a little easier to stir.

How Accurate Is It? I did use cavatappi-shaped noodles because the store was out of elbow macaroni, and that's the closest I could get. The cheese type wasn't specified, so I picked gruyère because I heard it's a popular option for macaroni. It melted easily and tasted great, so I think this was a good decision--and if the internet is to be believed, this cheese has been made since the middle ages. I have less confidence that Victorians were using hickory smoked gruyère in their macaroni, but it certainly tasted nice. For the ingredient proportions, I did follow the instructions to use enough milk to half-cover the cooked noodles; the rest of the ingredients are to one's own taste, excepting the butter, which I scaled down since I am only one person and wasn't preparing a dish for a whole table. I think this is a reasonable alteration since "butter the size of a turkey egg" isn't scaled to anything. I am disproportionately proud that I used homemade breadcrumbs in this receipt.

 

Macaroni from an 1857 recipe.