Miscellaneous Thoughts on Hair Dressing

La Toilette (1858) Joseph Caraud

Mostly with the mid-19th century in mind:

*Some sort of oil/pomatum really helps achieve the 'slick and neat' look so favored in the mid-century. I've also found that thoroughly soaking the hair can be effective. This is my preferred option on days when I need to go directly from a period event to a modern one, as sleek oiled hair can read as 'dirty' in modern styles.

*Bobby pins are meant for bobs--for guiding short hair into position. Hairpins are better suited to long hair and bulky updos.

*Staight-legged hair pins do not grip the same way wavy ones do--that's why wavy legged pins were invented and have remained popular.  For best effect, insert the pin in the opposite direction from where you want to end up, then flip it around and weave it into place. Sliding it in makes it easy to slide out again. You will still lose pins, but less quickly.

*A lot of hair can be put up with surprisingly few pins. I can do a mid-19th century 'do with as few as four, and for 16th century I've managed with a single hairpin, or even none at all (wrapped braids and a linen rail help).

*Freshly-washed hair tends to slip and rebel a little more than hair washed a few days earlier. If you have to wash your hair that same day, try putting it up damp rather than fully drying it.

*Hair elastics didn't exist in the mid-19th century; I try to avoid using them, favoring thread or ribbon or nothing at all. If you need to use elastic to fasten off a braid, try using small bands that are transparent or else ones that close to the color of the hair, and then tuck them into the coil/chignon.

*Smooth your hair with a natural bristle brush to distribute applied oil/pomade and to get a neat look.

*Rats can be made in various shapes to fit the look you're going for. They do need to be replaced periodically, as they can get matted and flat.

*Whatever your hair's default color or texture, people in the period had it, and you can make accurate hairstyles.  Dyed and cut hair is trickier. Consider your living history goals, the standards of the event you are attending, and your resources: clever arrangement may temporarily conceal a jaunty color, supplemental hairpieces can fill out short hair in an updo. Look, also, at historic photographs: though not prevalent, you can find occasional examples of women with short hair (generally parted and curled like a small child's short hair). For very dramatically modern hair, a covering sunbonnet or wig may be useful.

*Practice. Get the techniques into your muscle memory, and figure out which elements suit your particular style of beauty.