Monday, July 2, 2018

Lacing Kirtle Eyelets

I finally added the rest of the eyelets to my kirtle--being pinched for time at first, I only made every other intended eyelet, leaving them spaced twice as far apart as they should have been. This did give a functional garment, but one apt to pull and pucker awkwardly (finally adding the boning helped a little). The new eyelets actually turned out decently, but I'm more excited about my work-around for putting the lace through.

So, if you ever find yourself without an appropriately-sized bodkin or needle (ie, one with an eye large enough for your lace, cord or tape, and a maximum diameter smaller than your eyelets), here's how to insert the laces with a smaller sewing needle and some thread:

Hand-stitched eyelets on a reproduction 16th century kirtle; step 1, tutorial for lacing with a sewing needle, without a bodkin.
1. Cord on inside (lining side) of kirtle.
Step 1: Lay the cord next to the eyelet, on the side you want it go into. Here, I want the lace to enter the eyelet from the lining side of the garment, and come out on the right side; the cord is therefore on the lining side of the garment.
Step 2 tutorial for lacing kirtle with a small needle.
2. Threaded needle inserted into eyelet.
Step 2: Put your threaded needle through the eyelet, on the opposite side from your cord. I want the cord to end on the garment's outside, so the needle starts on the "right"/outer side and the cord on the inside/"wrong" side.

Step 3, how to put cord or laces through eyelets with only a sewing needle and thread
3. Needle goes around the cord and back through the eyelet.
Step 3: Holding the thread tail on the right side, bring the needle around the cord and put the needle back through the eyelet. Make sure you have several inches of cord on either side,  so it doesn't fall out of the "loop" of thread.
Step 4, lacing cord or ribbon through eyelets or grommets with sewing thread and small needle
4. Pull the thread through, bringing the cord with it.
Step 4: Holding both the needle and the thread tail, pull the thread back up through the eyelet, bringing the cord with it.

Repeat as needed, until all holes are laced. This is a bit slower than putting the cord through a large needle and threading it directly, but it was a lifesaver when I found myself with needles that were too small for the task.

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