I made a second 16th century smock based on the instructions in
The Tudor Tailor. While the
first one I made had a collar and cuffed sleeves with button fasteners, this time I made the collar-less version, with narrower sleeve (plain hemmed edge) and no fasteners. Between the simplified finishing, and tracing the first smock for a pattern, this garment made up very quickly: about 10-15 minutes to cut, and 6 hours* to completely hand-sew. The sleeve and gusset seams are all run-and-fell, while the sides seams are just running stitch; the neck, cuff, and bottom edges are all 1/4" twice-folded hems. This time I used a slightly heavier (mid-weight) twilled linen, which I think I acquired from
Fabric Mart during their last linen sale.
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Plain linen smock for 16th century wear. |
*While doing other activities: watching a hockey game, playing D&D, and listening to a lecture. It may have gone quicker if I was not multi-tasking.
And, just for fun, here's an original 16th century smock from Italy:
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Late 16th century Italian smock, from The Met |
I'm alternating between covetous admiration, and sheer terror at number of hours all that embroidery took. Also, awe that it survived that last four centuries, and a strong desire to inspect it more closely.
[Hint to costume designers: this is what should be worn under the corset/stays/bodies. Isn't it pretty? Don't you want to start
including it in your plans?]
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