Here's my new white waist for early 1860s wear. The inspiration piece is a basic gathered body with full bishop sleeves (from The Graceful Lady, first on the page). I'm kicking myself over the fabric--I have a piece of barred cotton very similar to the original which I had just cut up for a fancy knitting apron before I decided to make a white body. Alas. Instead, I ended up using a piece of plain cotton batiste that was on hand.
I decided to make a detached half-high lining for this body: none of the originals I've found pictures of have attached linings, and my material is so sheer that an intermediate layer is needed to conceal unsightly corset and chemise lines. I did not opt for a "corset cover" because I've still found little evidence that they were in use before 1865. The lining is white pimatex; both it and the body are draped-to-fit, with dart and armscythe adjustments courtesy of Nancy.
The silk waist has an interior structure of crinoline, with 1/4" steel boning in the points. It fastens with hooks and eyes on the side. It is displayed (and worn) with the green wool skirt that also accompanies my 1850s velvet and lace basque.
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